Sowing seeds of Haworthia isn’t particularly challenging, but it does demand patience, as germination tends to be slow, with noticeable sprouting often only beginning after the first 2-3 weeks.

I usually sow Haworthia seeds with Lithops seeds as they have quite similar temp. requirements. 20-25 degree at day time and 15-18 degree at night time with slight day-to-night variations, combined with high humidity and a well-sterilized substrate, creates an ideal environment for the seeds to germinate without the risk of fungal infections or chill damage.

 Unlike some succulents, Haworthia seeds are sensitive to high temperatures initially and take their time to start germinating. Don’t be discouraged if you only see a few sprouts after the first 2-3 weeks—this is normal. By the third or fourth week, the seedlings should begin to appear more abundantly, growing toward the light and often overlapping with their first leaves. Keeping temperatures consistently between 22-23°C during the day and 16-18°C at night helps prevent fungal issues that may arise if temperatures fall below 15°C.

For the substrate, I use a blend similar to what I use for other succulents: fine pumice, perlite, and sifted coconut coir. After steaming the substrate to ensure it’s sterile, I add one tablespoon of Osmocote per liter of substrate to provide steady nutrients.

It’s best to sow fresh seeds no older than a year, as succulent seeds tend to lose viability relatively quickly. While I haven’t tested exact longevity, I recommend using fresh seeds for optimal results.

Once the seeds start sprouting, I open the lid slightly for ventilation and mist the substrate lightly twice a day to maintain high humidity. I keep the substrate just moist enough to avoid waterlogging; it dries out a bit during the day and is lightly misted in the evening to increase humidity and dampen the top layer of soil.

After 2-4 months, I remove the lid entirely, and the seedlings are typically ready for their first transplant around 6-8 months, once they’ve developed a few sturdy leaves.

To protect against rot, I occasionally treat the seedlings with fungicide and a light vitamin solution. I also add Osmocote to the soil at sowing, which provides continuous nutrition as they grow.

What if the seeds don’t sprout? If germination doesn’t occur, I dry out the pot completely, treat any algae with 3-5% hydrogen peroxide (safe for the seeds), and let the substrate dry for 2-3 weeks. Afterward, I re-moisten and try placing the pot in a different well-lit spot for another attempt. I sometimes repeat this 2-3 times if necessary. Seeds might fail to germinate immediately for various reasons—being too fresh (they typically need at least 2 months from harvesting to sowing), suboptimal sowing period, insufficient initial moisture, or inconsistent temperatures. If no germination occurs even after several tries, it may be helpful to try a different substrate or location for the next attempt.